Looking into Rome from the top of Monteverde.
Visiting a city like Rome can and should be one of life's great pleasures. That being said, visiting Rome might also be one of life's more overwhelming achievements! One way I have found to minimize exhaustion and maximize the Roman experience is to stay slightly outside the city center. This may not be for everyone, but I would have it no other way. Getting outside of the historic center is such a great way to see daily life and find little pockets that just might offer the things which elude so many when visiting such a popular area. You wouldn't go to New York and only visit Times Square!
Old meets new.
Monteverde is that place for me and has offered a much needed city respite on all of my visits. If you are familiar with the Pier Paolo Pasolini classic, Mamma Roma, you have likely caught a glimpse of Monteverde. Although Pasolini grew up in Bologna, Monteverde became, for some time, his adopted home. Certainly, he was rightly critical of the very things about this area which I enjoy: it's tall apartment buildings and urban grit nestled closely to the beautiful images which Rome typically conjures. For me, there is great beauty here, too, and I love being the only tourist around.
People here are friendly, welcoming and helpful and from here, the centro storico is 15 minutes away by public transit. Or, do what I do and walk it. Clocking in at just around an hour, I love starting my day this way. Walking to the top of Monteverde past all the butchers and cafes, wine shops and pizzerias, and then winding down to the river through the posh Trastevere isn't an inconvenience, for me it is a bonus.
Another bonus is this charming park, just past the Roman walls exiting Monteverde. Near Piazza Cucchi Francesco.
It's a good thing you are walking, too, since Monteverde offers a ridiculous number of very fine eateries, fancy and casual. Eating out here as opposed to fighting for a table in the city will make you feel like you finally know what you are doing (for once!) and the chances of a disappointing meal decrease dramatically.
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I have stayed several times at Anna Maria's Guesthouse. I hope to stay there many more times. On the 7th floor of an apartment building just off of Donna Olympia, Anna Maria will make you feel like a long lost child. I could go on and on about how delightful this woman is. She also holds the world record for number of times saying 'ciao ciao' at the end of a phone conversation. She is a wealth of information on Rome and will make you fresh juice and excellent coffee each morning. She will also track down that wallet you left in a taxi after 24 hours of travel (oops!) and take you in after you accidentally (hung-overedly) miss your friend's tour bus up to Turin (sorry Pontiak!). Plus, from here, it is an easy walk to some really tasty food.
Via di Monte Verde, 1, Gianicolense, Rome 00152
Things in Monteverde tend to be a few Euros less so you can afford your morning cappuccino daily. I am partial to Bar Marcucci. Order your coffee from the cashier and take your receipt and set it on the bar with a small tip. In no time the friendly barista will place before you the Italian coffee of your dreams. Enjoy! Here and throughout Italy, drinking your coffee (or any drink) standing at the bar is always a bit cheaper than sitting at a table, especially in tourist areas.
1 cappucino and 1 espresso: 2€ or about 2.15$.
I must admit, I have a nice little Monteverde routine which I am pretty loyal to. There are many, many places you could bop into, and you should! At any cafe or any outdoor kiosk you can live like a local and order up an espresso, a Campari or even a tall glass of the popular amaro, Vecchio Amaro del Capo.
This generous pour of basic amaro will run you about 2€ if you drink it standing at the bar.
I know you are getting hungry by now and I have some supremely great news that can be summed up in two words: Pizza Polli. Not only does this spot have a fun name, they are also serving up some of the greatest pizza rustica I have ever had the pleasure of consuming. The real name of the restaurant in Friggitoria "Franz" Girarrosto, which means they also make fried goodies and roast chicken.
Friggitoria Franz, Piazza E. Dunant 22, Roma
Hot, crunchy and bursting with creamy mozzarella goodness, Pizza Polli is simply fantastic. They offer a variety of pizza by the slice which they pop in the oven and sandwich together before handing it to you in a paper wrapper. Also, there is not a microwave in sight (you'd be surprised how unique this is!). The rotisseri chicken sold here is quite good as well. Sometimes they place a platter of roast potatoes under the dripping rotisseri to crisp up with a bit of seasoned chicken fat. What's better is when they they use these potatoes to fashion a slice with cooked ham and mozzarella. Fantastic!
The aforementioned chicken fat/potato/ham/mozzarella.
The delightfully salty and suductive green olive.
The deceptively simple and sweet tomato/mozzarella.
The elegant zucchini blossom and anchovy.
Of course, this type of pizza is typical around town, but I find it to be insanely perfect and thankfully consistant here. None of these slices cost more than 3€ and they are filling and have a nice variety of toppings. Grabbing a slice or two before you walk into the city would be a wise choice. Where I think this little shop shines in comparison to the many other's like it, is their use of top notch mozzarella and good tasting olive oil. The folks in here are helpful and friendly. Oh, and did I mention they have really great crispy, saucy, cheesy arancini, too?
They do!
So, Pizza Polli is awesome (obviously) but perhaps you seek a bit more protein? I hear you. Never fear! I will wax poetic about the best porchetta I have ever had in a later post, but for now, I will let you know about some very fine porchetta to be found in this little Monteverde enclave of delight, Pane Ciociaro Cotto a Legna.
If this is the second best porchetta you'll have in Rome, you are insanely lucky!
This little spot not far from Donna Olympia will slice you up a nice chunk of well seasoned, fatty, crispy porchetta for next to nothing. When you order small(ish) amounts of meat in Italy, you typically do so by the tenth of a kilo, or un etto. At this place, the porchetta was less than 2€ per etto and made for a great snack.
YES!
This place is well known on account of their breads cooked in the wood oven. After all that pizza, they had me at porchetta. Also on offer here is 'vino sfuso' or loose wine on draft. Intrigued? I know. This is an awesome and fun way to enjoy some really fantastic wines for very little money, often between 1 and 2€ per liter, which is why I will dedicate a whole post to it in the near future.
Pane Ciociaro Cotto a Legna, Circonvallazione Gianicolense, 106, Tel. 333 7201930
Even if you don't stay out this way I swear it would be worth it to walk or train out here if you feel like you are getting ripped off in the city center. Eating great food out here is affordable, delicious and offers a glimpse of typical neighborhood life in Rome. What could be better?
Of course, it isn't just the street food which is exciting. There are several delicious places to have a typical Roman meal and the best Neopolitan pizza this side of Naples.
Of course, it isn't just the street food which is exciting. There are several delicious places to have a typical Roman meal and the best Neopolitan pizza this side of Naples.
Via F. Ozanam, 30-32, 00152 Monteverde,Rome, 06.5346702
La Gatta Magiona is certainly no secret. This busy pizzeria serves up the best Naples style pizza in Rome. Now, if you are going to Naples on your trip, it might be wise to wait on the pizza until you are there. It doesn't get any more magnificent (or less expensive) than pizza in Napoli. However, this is an incredible place with wood fired pizzas, crunchy and inventive suppli (rice balls) and a smart and well priced wine list. This is a good first stop after a long day of travel, as you are assured great food.
Saffron and asparagus suppli and a refreshingly dry Lambrusco.
The servers here are friendly and efficient and the space is open and inviting. They also have draft beer, pastas and salads.
This handsome pizzaiolo will not only make you a fantastic pizza, but he'll let you take his photo, too!
If you are craving more of a Roman meal, check out Da Cesare. Again, the secret is out on this one, and you'll find plenty of tourists here, but an affordable and well made meal can still be had. Plus they offer 'mezzo piatos'(half portions).
Via del Casaletto, 45, Gianicolense, Rome 00151
The fried section of this menu is justly popular. Little paper cones of fried squid, anchovies and other fried rice balls will show up on everyone's tables. We came to try the unusual Roman treat, gnocchi fritti (fried gnocchi). These are served on a bed of cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) sauce.
This is an awful photo!
I was happy to try it, but I wish I'd gone mezzo piatto here. The real stand out for me were the veal polpette (meatballs) lightly breaded, fried and topped with pesto. The veal was tender and shredded, which is a nice suprise! The pesto brightens the whole thing up and these were sensational with the 4€ half liter of Pecorino (the wine!) we ordered. The pasta with oxtail was another standout.
Still hungry? You better be! I have saved the best for next! Full review on L'Osteria di Montevede in the following post.
Arrivederchi, mis amores!
Arrivederchi, mis amores!