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DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 3 (CONT): GUERRERO NEGRO TO MULEGE (+CHOCOLATE CLAMS)

4/20/2015

El Viejo, El Azufre and El Vírgenes, respectively. Or, Las Tres Vírgenes, collectively.

After this morning's whale adventure, it is actually refreshing to get in the car for the quick 4 hour drive to Mulegé. The scenery remains breathtaking and about every five minutes someone will exclaim--I can't believe I touched a whale! And you did! Way to go!

Look at those boojum!

Now we are crossing the Baja Penninsula from the Pacific Coast to the Sea of Cortez, passing through (you guessed it!) more desert. The scenery on this leg of the trips changes a bit from the typical desert scenes we have seen thus far to dramatic fields of boulders.

Additionaly, there are some beautiful mountains and old volcanos on display. Plus, some spectacularly steep and narrow highway curves, enjoy!

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DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 3: GUERRERO NEGRO+WHALES

4/20/2015

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The draw of Guerrero Negro is certainly not the food. Good thing you are full up on tacos and oysters! Yes, folks, the real draw of Guerrero Negro are the thousands of California Gray Whales (2,300 adult females this Spring!) who make the epic 6,000 mile trip south from Alaska to give birth in the warm, salty and shallow waters of Southern Baja (1,200 baby's, too!). And can you believe the mama will bring her babe the 6,000 miles back to Alaska, nursing all the while, without eating? I know!

The Mighty Pacific.

This stunning landscape goes on for what will feel like eternity! Take it in, though, as it is truly unique. I can think of very few places which feel so beautifully foreign. You will pass through the valley and be no doubt ready to stretch out upon arriving in Guerrero Negro.

Enjoy the desert, only 8 thousand hours to go!

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DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 2: TIJUANA TO GUERRERO NEGRO VIA ENSENADA AND SAN QUINTIN

4/18/2015

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The trip from Tijuana to Guerrero Negro is as beautiful as it is long, which is to say VERY! Get out of TJ as early as you can and leave even earlier if you hope to sample the best carnitas around. We were up and out at 8am and we still rolled into San Quintin too late for the magical pork (at 11!). And so, I offer an alternate breakfast plan, as the last few times I have ventured through San Quintin, the elusive carnitas have been sold out. Am I suggesting you alter your trip and stay overnight in San Quintin soley to eat these carnitas? Yes I am! (they are really that good.)

Oh no! Empty vat!

You may be thinking, forget carnitas, what was that first picture and how can I eat it? And that is a great question!
Enroute from Tijuana to San Quintin, it is possible, if not rushing to eat carnitas, one may choose to visit the remarkable stand of El Pizón in Ensenada. This would be a wise choice if you are more interested in eating ridiculously amazing seafood than arriving in Guerrero Negro at a reasonable hour. While I do not suggest traversing the Highway 1 after dark, I do recommend trying the sea urchin at this stand. El Pizón opens at 10 am and Guerrero Negro is about 8.5 hours away, so it is possible to eat here and still arrive by sunset.

Av. Dr. Pedro Loyola at Guaymas

Sea urchin, or uni, is the specialty at this stand. Often called erizo in Baja, to my knowledge, the term erizo indicates an urchin spread, usually mashed, seasoned and eaten on a tostada. This is good, but we were after a dish we'd heard of with sliced raw tuna and whole urchin tongues. And, this is what we received!

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DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 1: TIJUANA

4/4/2015

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Driving down the Baja Peninsula is one of the most rewarding road trips I can think of. The diversity of this area, on land and in sea, is truly unmatched and exploring this thin strip can offer some of the most impressive memories you can imagine. Oh, and did I mention the food?

I have made the long trip only twice, but have made many many short jaunts down while living in Southern California. Planning the trip is fairly straight forward, as the Peninsula offers only a handful of accommodations coordinating with the activities in each area.

A logical starting point is Tijuana (unless you are one of the lucky folks living in San Diego). Tijuana is such a joy to visit these days. If you enjoy tacos, get ready. Tacos in Tijuana are a truly special treat and should not be missed. There are several spots worth seeking out and many more dotted throughout the city. Look for smoke and a good crowd of people and order up.

This taquero was friendly and efficient. Just look out for El Terrible.

We have consistently found delicious fresh tacos a bit outside of the tourist zone, around the red light district on the corner of Calle Baja California and Avenida Constitucion.

East side of Avenida Constitucion near Calle Baja California

These little tacos pack a punch. Carne asada (grilled steak) and birria de res (stewed, shredded, saucy beef) are the only meats on offer and they are fantastic. Get them 'con todo' (with everything) or 'con verduras' (with veggies)--both mean the same thing: onions, cilantro, salsa and guacamole*when applicable*-- to be sure you don't miss out on the best bite possible. At this puesta, the carne asada is so smoky and beefy, the birria tender, dripping down your chin juicy and delicious. Birria comes sans guacamole, because that is the way it comes. At around a dollar each, get two at least, three if you are smart. It is also typical here and throughout Mexico to throw a few pinto beans on top of your carne asada. Don't get me wrong, these beans are delicious, but for my taste, and keeping in mind I want to eat at least a million tacos, I forgo, but by all means, do it up!

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Forward>>

DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 3 (CONT): GUERRERO NEGRO TO MULEGE (+CHOCOLATE CLAMS)

DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 3: GUERRERO NEGRO+WHALES

DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 2: TIJUANA TO GUERRERO NEGRO VIA ENSENADA AND SAN QUINTIN

DRIVING THE BAJA PENINSULA, DAY 1: TIJUANA

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