Driving down the Baja Peninsula is one of the most rewarding road trips I can think of. The diversity of this area, on land and in sea, is truly unmatched and exploring this thin strip can offer some of the most impressive memories you can imagine. Oh, and did I mention the food?
I have made the long trip only twice, but have made many many short jaunts down while living in Southern California. Planning the trip is fairly straight forward, as the Peninsula offers only a handful of accommodations coordinating with the activities in each area.
A logical starting point is Tijuana (unless you are one of the lucky folks living in San Diego). Tijuana is such a joy to visit these days. If you enjoy tacos, get ready. Tacos in Tijuana are a truly special treat and should not be missed. There are several spots worth seeking out and many more dotted throughout the city. Look for smoke and a good crowd of people and order up.
I have made the long trip only twice, but have made many many short jaunts down while living in Southern California. Planning the trip is fairly straight forward, as the Peninsula offers only a handful of accommodations coordinating with the activities in each area.
A logical starting point is Tijuana (unless you are one of the lucky folks living in San Diego). Tijuana is such a joy to visit these days. If you enjoy tacos, get ready. Tacos in Tijuana are a truly special treat and should not be missed. There are several spots worth seeking out and many more dotted throughout the city. Look for smoke and a good crowd of people and order up.
This taquero was friendly and efficient. Just look out for El Terrible.
We have consistently found delicious fresh tacos a bit outside of the tourist zone, around the red light district on the corner of Calle Baja California and Avenida Constitucion.
East side of Avenida Constitucion near Calle Baja California
These little tacos pack a punch. Carne asada (grilled steak) and birria de res (stewed, shredded, saucy beef) are the only meats on offer and they are fantastic. Get them 'con todo' (with everything) or 'con verduras' (with veggies)--both mean the same thing: onions, cilantro, salsa and guacamole*when applicable*-- to be sure you don't miss out on the best bite possible. At this puesta, the carne asada is so smoky and beefy, the birria tender, dripping down your chin juicy and delicious. Birria comes sans guacamole, because that is the way it comes. At around a dollar each, get two at least, three if you are smart. It is also typical here and throughout Mexico to throw a few pinto beans on top of your carne asada. Don't get me wrong, these beans are delicious, but for my taste, and keeping in mind I want to eat at least a million tacos, I forgo, but by all means, do it up!
Birria de Res on the left and a trio of Carne Asada, con todo.
After a week of delicious tacos, we still remember these fondly.
We have a pretty set schedule when heading to Tijuana for the night, so I neglected to take enough photos of our usual haunts (or any!) but take my word for it and trust me, OK? At around 50$ the best budget spot to stay in town is Hotel Caesar's. We have stayed here several times, and it has actually improved in the last few years. Hotel Caesar has wifi and offers secure parking for a few bucks more. Call ahead, especially on the weekend. This is also the home of the Caesar salad, though I am always too busy eating tacos to try it out!
Av Revolución 1927, Centro, 22000 Tijuana, Baja California, México +52 664 685 1927
Flores Magón 2030, Centro, 22000 Tijuana, Baja California, México +52 664 688 0052
We always have a great time at The Dandy, and you will, too! Ask for a bowl of that snack you see everyone eating. These are chicharrones de harina, which is to say chicharrones made out of flour instead of pork. This is quite possibly the only vegetarian thing we will eat on the whole trip (sorry!), so eat it up. A bowl of these crackery chips makes for a great drinking snack and will come to you doused in hot sauce and lime juice. They get a bit soggy towards the bottom of the bowl so snack quickly; you can always get more. Plus, they usually have peanuts in the shell.
From here, you can easily walk to Calle Sexta (6th Street or La Sexta) for a taste of the nightlife. Do steer clear of all the folks beckoning you into the big clubs on Calle Revolution with promises of two for one margaritas. On 6th street there are a handful of respectable hangouts to choose from. In the last several years this area has experienced a kind of youth-driven renaissance and thank goodness it did! Tijuana is a wonderful city with such a vibrant food and art scene, it deserves more attention than it receives.
We usually hit up the same few places but one constant always remains, your favorite and mine, the world famous, Dandy del Sur. This classic cavernous bar has a great juke box and plenty of tequila and cold beer. The bartenders are friendly and attentive and the prices are fair.
We usually hit up the same few places but one constant always remains, your favorite and mine, the world famous, Dandy del Sur. This classic cavernous bar has a great juke box and plenty of tequila and cold beer. The bartenders are friendly and attentive and the prices are fair.
Fancy some mezcal? Head across the street to La Mezcalera.
Calle Sexta Flores Magón 8267, Centro, 22000 Tijuana, B.C., Mexico +52 664 688 0384
Too fancy? Hit up La Estrella.
Calle 6ta. #8218, Centro, 22000 Tijuana, Baja California
Or, try out a favorite of mine, Tropic's Bar. This is a fun, cheap spot to grab a booth and enjoy the crowd. With table service and friendly servers, this is a must stop for me. Although, my real favorite was the enchanting Bar Corona, before they remodeled. Ah, memories.
Flores Magón 8259, Zona Centro, 22000 Tijuana, Baja California, México +52 664 685 4261
By now, you are definitely regretting not eating a thousand tacos at that amazing taco stand. Never fear! If a walk back to the red light district isn't in the cards, consider a short cab ride out to Las Ahumaderas, a set of six puestos (stands) serving up delicious tacos.
Taco de Lengua con salsa verde.
This wonderful taco de lengua (braised beef tongue) was rich in flavor but still so light, juicy and tender. These always come sin (without) guacamole and con (with) salsa verde. Why? Because it is perfect , that's why!
Al Pastor and Chorizo tacos, con todo.
It is possible that we ate a ridiculous number of tacos here. Can you blame us? Anyways, this might be your first taste of the Baja classic, the quesa taco.
I am not a taco! I am a quesa taco!
As you might guess, a quesa taco is a taco with (surprise!) cheese. But, it is sooo much more! A handful of cheese is thrown on the grill and topped with your choice of tortilla (more on this below). Once the cheese is perfectly melty, a llittle crunchy and delicious, the taco is finished with your choice of meat, crisped on the grill and topped “con todo”—you have come this far, so please go for it! This means snacking on grilled green onions, crisp cucumbers, fresh radishes and some spicy roasted jalapeños.
This may also be your first opportunity to familiarize yourself with what will become a constant taco question from here on out: harina (flour) o maiz (corn). Now, for this Iowa girl, flour tortillas conjure up images of grocery store, spongy, bready, stale tortillas. But, great news! These flour tortillas are fresh, flaky, buttery and truly delicious. They make an excellent wrapper for a quesa taco, especially when crisped up a bit on the griddle. Maiz and Harina tortillas are usually made fresh to order in these spots and in most places we visit along this route. They are both divine, so personal preference rules. For me, a fish taco must have a corn tortilla and a quesa taco a flour tortilla. Find your favorite combo!
Now I know you are wondering, what is this beer I keep seeing? My dear friends, this is my most favorite of the dark Mexican beers, the famous and nearly unknown Bohemia Obscura. For some reason I can only find this in Mexico, perhaps due to it's obscurity. Really the obscura only means it is the darker half of Bohemia Clara. So drink loads of it whilst eating delicious tacos and thank me later. These were purchased at a corner store down the street and kindly opened by the nice folks at Tacos "Las 3 Salsas". Please be sure here and at any establishment you want to BYOB, always ask if drinking is OK, OK?
Guilermo Prieto 9770, Col. Gabilondo, 22400 Tijuana, Baja California
You must be tired and full. Time to hit the hay and psych yourself up for a 10 hour car ride, or return to Calle Sexta for just one more... Motivate yourself to rise at the crack of dawn with the promise of, you guessed it, more tacos!!