In Mulegé, I like to stay at the locally owned Hotel Hacienda. The rooms have air conditioning, wifi, there is a pool *sometimes* and they have free coffee in the mornings. Oh, and it is cheap! Around 30$ for a double. Check out the photos in the bar area for a glimpse back in time.
What I really love about this place is the enormous grapefruit tree in the courtyard which has the most fragrant blossoms in the spring. It perfumes the whole place.
What I really love about this place is the enormous grapefruit tree in the courtyard which has the most fragrant blossoms in the spring. It perfumes the whole place.
Hotel Hacienda Mulegé Madero No. 3 Col: Centro Mulegé, Baja California Sur 23900 Tel: 615.153-0021
Remember when you leave to grab a few blossom sprigs. This way you can fashion an air freshener for your rental car, which at this point probably smells a bit like whale breath, Modelo and spilled coffee.
If a seafood breakfast isn't in the cards, seek out Asadero Los Arcos (or at least the sign for it). This charming birria de cabrito (stewed small goat) stand serves up delicious birria.
Popular with the locals for vasos (cups) of stewed meat to go, this birria is so tender and tasty. They throw in a few corn tortillas and a little baggie of hot sauce all for a couple bucks. We opted for individual tacos, which in retrospect wasn't the best value--go for the vaso, that way you get a bit of the consommé, too.
Calle Moctezuma, look for signs to Hotel la Posada or Asadero Los Arcos.
This is a nice way to start the day.
 |  |
If you happen upon any fish taco stands about town, check those out, too. I had one of the most fantastic corvina tacos here a few years back at a little cart in a small square off Moctezuma but this time it was nonexistent. Maybe it is a weekend thing, who knows. Just east your birria and be happy! And don't forget to grab some icy beers and snacks before heading to the luscious beaches dotting the Bahia Concepción.
The Bahia Concepción is unparalleled in it's dramatic beauty. This is only about 20 miles south of Mulegé and on the path to Loreto. It is nice to give yourself a good chunk of time to wind your way down, stopping off at a few beaches to lounge.
The first beach you come across is the largest and usually most populated. We once were here during "Semana Santa", the Easter Holy Week, and not only was the beach full of campers and tents, but also a Ferris wheel?!? Usually it is a much more mellow affair. You will be asked to pay a fee of about 3$ to hang here. Other beaches threaten to charge, but this is the only one which seems to follow through.
We were really digging this quiet beach, 'El Burro', but I imagine it can fill up, too.
Two beach exits south of El Burro we came across this sweet beach. Too bad there were so many people!
Another beach swarmed with hundreds of tourists.
This beach was made all the sweeter when a nice man offered up his paddle board so that my pal and I could scope out the bay. And can you believe we had two whale sharks pass below us? I swear! This was enough to persuade me to bring our own board the next time, or rent a kayak.
Man, that one guy is really ruining my photo.
I guess what I mean to say is, there is not a bad beach down here. Visit many, or choose the one that speaks to you and hunker down. If the water is quite calm and shallow, do yourself a favor and shuffle your feet, OK? We spotted a few sneaky baby stingrays in those conditions.